Super Safety Troubleshooting
This guide is oriented specifically toward traditional AR-15 builds in .223/5.56. If you are using an AR-10, AR-22, AR-12, or non-traditional BCG ARs, this guide may not be applicable as the Super Safety likely does not function in those without modifications or additional parts.
Lower Troubleshooting
Utilize these steps after ensuring you are using mil-spec AR-15 parts. DO NOT use M16 FCG parts or “fancy” parts for initial testing (you can use upgraded hammers/springs/etc after you have it functioning, but we will not help troubleshoot those), the more generic, the better.
Issue: The trigger pull is very heavy in super safe.
Solution: Lightly sand the rounded corner of the trigger with 220-grit sandpaper. Only take off a little material, it shouldn’t take a lot to get it running smoothly. MAKE SURE you keep the round shape on the corner. After function tests pass, we suggest using 320-grit, 400-grit, and possibly one more higher grit to polish the corner without removing more than a surface amount of material.
Issue: The trigger does not function in super safe. It either doesn’t allow you to pull it or it won’t release the hammer when the lever is fully forward.
Solution: Sand the rounded corner of the trigger with 220-grit sandpaper. Only take off a little material, it shouldn’t take a lot to get it running smoothly, but may take a few tries. MAKE SURE you keep the round shape on the corner. After function tests pass, we suggest using 320-grit, 400-grit, and possibly one more higher grit to polish the corner without removing more than a surface amount of material.
Issue: The safety cam is jumping positions during function checks or live testing without you pushing it.
Solution 1: Verify you are using a rounded safety detent and the round surface hasn’t flattened out too much.
Solution 2: Verify the safety detent spring is not crooked/bent/pinched and appropriate pressure is applied to the detent/cam (you should feel distinct tactile clicks when you move between positions). If the pressure isn’t sufficient, you can add some material under the detent or spring to compress it further. In rare cases, you may need to reduce the pressure by removing a coil or coils from the spring.
Solution 3: You may need to utilize a centering block (particularly if you have a M16 cut lower, but some lowers with wide pockets may also need it). Make sure the block can move freely in the lower to prevent binding, it may need some trimming.
Solution 4: In extremely rare cases, the cam may be out of spec, please contact us.
Issue: The trigger does not reset when you move the lever as far back as it can.
Solution 1: Verify the safety cam is in the middle position, this is “super safe.”
Solution 2: Verify your lower is not a “high shelf” lower (see Picture 1 below). In rare cases, there are some “low shelf” lowers that are made just slightly out of spec and need just a little material removed from behind the safety hole to allow the cam to rotate fully, you can Dremel this out or have a gunsmith/machinist mill it out slightly.
Solution 3: Trigger may be overcut, please contact us if you purchased the trigger from us.
Issue: The trigger and hammer pins are “walking out” and you need to push them back in sometimes.
Solution: We recommend always installing Anti-Walk Pins on Super Safety kits. DO NOT USE ANTI-ROTATION PINS!!! Anti-Walk Pins are available from a variety of vendors.
Issue: The safe position is not “safe.”
Solution: The trigger is most likely very incorrectly cut or something is not installed correctly, please restart installation from scratch and if it continues, please contact us.
Upper Troubleshooting
Utilize these steps after following all the Lower Troubleshooting steps.
Issue: The charging handle or bolt carrier group “binds” or “sticks” about ¾ of the way to the rear.
Solution 1: The rear shelf of the upper needs to be cut to prevent the lever from being pinched between it and the BCG (Bolt Carrier Group). Please see Pictures 2 and 3 below for before and after examples of the shelf cut. You may use a Dremel to quickly remove this.
Solution 2: This solution should not be needed if the aforementioned upper cut is performed, we do not recommend this solution in 99% of installations. The flat “top” of the lever is too tall and needs to be ground down some to prevent binding between the BCG and cam. If it is still necessary, use a Dremel with a drum sander (40-80 grit) to grind the top of the lever some until it functions smoothly. Note: We will not cover any failures of the lever resulting from this modification.
Solution 3: If the bolt is over-traveling too far into the buffer tube, you either need a longer buffer (rifle length buffer) or you may place 1-4 quarters in the rear of the buffer tube behind the spring to “shorten” the tube (not our recommended solution, but it has worked).
Issue: The trigger is “dead” or “locked” after one round during dry fire or live fire. It acts like it’s in the safe position.
Solution: Verify you are using a Full Auto BCG. Some manufacturers such as S&W or Ruger use a Semi Auto BCG which lacks the rear of the opening to actuate the lever back forward, so you will feel the reset as it goes back, but it will be left locked up. See Picture 4 below for examples of what a Full Auto BCG looks like.
Issue: The bolt on my PCC (AR-9 or similar) won’t close fully into battery.
Solution: You need to cut the bolt weight or replace it with one that sits flush in the opening. See Picture 5 below for an example of the bolt weight cut.
Live Fire Troubleshooting
Utilize these steps after following all the Lower and Upper Troubleshooting steps above.
Issue: <5 rounds are fired before a LPS (Light Primer Strike) or hammer follow occurs and the charging handle needs to be pulled again.
Solution 1: Replace the buffer with a heavier weight buffer. We typically suggest a H3 5.5oz Buffer, but some platforms run fine on H2, some require a H4 (Note: this applies only to AR-15 .223/5.56, other calibers and suppressor usage can have different buffer weight requirements). We typically suggest adding weight in semi with 1 round in the magazine until the bolt no longer locks back after a single shot, then go down one step in weight.
Solution 2: Adjust the gas block to lower the backpressure. Not all builds have an adjustable block, but this may solve the issue.
Solution 3: Replace the buffer spring with a higher tension spring (sometimes referred to as “enhanced power” springs).
Issue: Failure to extract or eject.
Solution 1: Typically, this is due to a gassing issue. You may either adjust your gas block (if applicable) or adjust your buffer weight/spring until reliability is achieved.
Solution 2: If using a MP5 platform, we would replace the following parts in order: Extractor spring, Extractor, Ejector Lever. We recommend using H&K branded parts despite the steep additional costs. After replacing these, if you are using a K model, you may need to replace your locking piece with an 80-degree or 90-degree to slow the rate of fire. If it continues, test other ammo, suppressors, etc. as it may simply be too much or not enough bolt velocity.
Issue: When using a PCC (Pistol Caliber Carbine), you get OOB (Out Of Battery) detonations.
Solution 1: Replace the upper or entire PCC with a CMMG RDB system. This system uses the same locking lug design as a normal AR-15 so it is very difficult to fire out of battery.
Solution 2: Increase the total buffer + bolt weight to 23oz or greater. This additional weight helps to slam the bolt closed and prevent bolt bounce. We recommend replacing the bolt weight with KAK Industry’s tungsten weight as it’s already the right length for most BCGs and it weighs more than normal bolt weights.
Issue: The lever snapped in the first 100 rounds.
Solution 1: Please review the Upper Troubleshooting steps again, you likely did not perform the upper cut or, on PCCs, you did not cut the bolt weight.
Solution 2: Please verify your lower shelf is not too high as this can block the cam from rotating back fully and break the lever.
Solution 3: The hardening of the lever may have been incomplete, we will replace the lever, please contact us.
Issue: You run out of ammo too quickly.
Solution: Buy more ammo.
Picture 1 – High Shelf vs Low Shelf
(note the shelf sitting above the safety hole)
Picture 2 – Upper shelf before cut
Picture 3 – Upper shelf after cut
(note it goes back completely)
Picture 4 – Full Auto BCG vs Semi-Auto BCG
(note length of bottom opening)
Picture 5 – AR PCC Bolt Weight Cut
(note that the height has been reduced, we recommend halfway through the height of the bolt)